Craig LaBan only wishes he could like MidAtlantic the restaurant as much as he likes MidAtlantic the concept. But too many gaffes leave that as an impossibility.
But rarely have I seen such a fantastic idea stumble critically across the finish line over a needless array of elemental cooking gaffes, from a recurring salt problem to sloppy plating and dishes that taste like concepts still in the works.
What is the point of making such tasty beef hot dogs, coarse-ground and aromatic with fennel and clove, if they’re so awkward to eat? Mine were buried under a mountain of potato chips, pickles, and wads of fermented cabbage so messy, it looked as if it had been plated by a bucket, not a chef.
One Bell – Hit or Miss