MidAtlantic Misses

midatlantic

Craig LaBan only wishes he could like MidAtlantic the restaurant as much as he likes MidAtlantic the concept. But too many gaffes leave that as an impossibility.

But rarely have I seen such a fantastic idea stumble critically across the finish line over a needless array of elemental cooking gaffes, from a recurring salt problem to sloppy plating and dishes that taste like concepts still in the works.

What is the point of making such tasty beef hot dogs, coarse-ground and aromatic with fennel and clove, if they’re so awkward to eat? Mine were buried under a mountain of potato chips, pickles, and wads of fermented cabbage so messy, it looked as if it had been plated by a bucket, not a chef.

One Bell – Hit or Miss

MidAtlantic [Philadelphia Inquirer]
MidAtlantic [Official Site]

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