David Snyder checks out S&H Kebab House on Passyunk Avenue of off South Street and leaves smiling.
In my first visit, I had doubts as to whether the food could live up to Kucuk’s showmanship. Baba ghanoush had an unpleasant gelatinous texture; a soupy yogurt sauce drowned manti (Turkish dumplings).
But the generous kebab sampler I had on my second trip â€” it fed four of us for just $21.95 â€” made up for it. Lamb and chicken adana (minced meat molded onto skewers) delivered respectable heat. Gyro-like dÃ¶ner, lamb layered with veal, was tasty; both lamb cubes and meatballs were moist and flavorful. Other dishes satisfied, too â€” I enjoyed the light, dill-spiked Turkish feta wrapped inside fried yufka (Turkish phyllo dough). Although I wished it had more ground lamb, it’s hard to go wrong when the eggplant-based moussaka’s topped with a thick, bubbling layer of kasar (Turkish mozzarella).