David Snyder dines at Kite & Key off the Benjamin Franklin Parkway and finds a place where the food hasn’t caught up to the beers.
The kitchen, on the other hand, doesn’t complete the circuit. Spicy pineapple wings, served with a puzzling “nest” of pickled carrots, showed up nearly petrified. Pan-fried crab cake sliders, too, had little flavor, though the accompanying gazpacho was refreshing. I enjoyed the house seafood seasoning that flavored moist tilapia in the grilled fish tacos, but an out-of-place Asian slaw topper gave them an unpleasantly soggy texture. I was into the roast pork loin sandwich despite the broccoli rabe coming out under-sautÃ©ed.