Trey Popp visits Parc and rightfully spends as much time on the decor as the food. When he does get to the food, he finds much he likes.
But dishes hit the mark more often than they miss, as long as you’re not expecting much in the way of kitchen daredevilry. That duck confit wasn’t very exciting, but the delicious sardine filets â€” pre-soaked to strip away some of their brininess â€” made a convert out of one companion who usually steers clear of them. And a gorgeous skate wing, served with traditional browned butter and capers, was as perfectly cooked as that tricky bottom-dweller can be. The caramelized onions in a pastry-style pissaladiere were like soft candy beneath the zippy anchovies and olives. My lunchtime lamb sandwich would have been a winner by dint of bread alone.