Spilling The Beans On Nicholas

Adam Erace begrudgingly lets the cat out of the bag regarding Pennsport’s Nicholas.

Sugary grilled Jersey peaches marinated in rum and molasses and flecked with DiBruno’s gorgonzola make me forget the delicious grilled hickory-smoked Cannuli’s pork chop on the plate. Lemony chicken piccata scattered with capers pales in the limelight of roasted summer squash and Yukon wedges with crunchy edges.

“Beef & Reef” brings a succulent grilled prawn and petite flatiron steak that looks like it was butchered with child-safe scissors, but the slender, clover honey-glazed carrots and waxy yellow and deep violet fingerlings quickly shift the focus. Blackened tilapia accentuates charred corn-and-tomatillo salsa, not the other way around.

Nicholas [Philadelphia Weekly]
Nicholas [Official Site]