Rick Nichols subs for Craig LaBan and rings three bells for Zahav, the Israeli restaurant overlooking Dock Street in the shadows of the Society Hill towers. Nichols finds some gold in the regular menu but he’s quite grumpy with the the Quarter, Zahav’s back room for weekly tastings.
Zahav does so much right, so singularly and – in its rendering of a Jewish grandmother’s unforgettable chicken soup – sometimes brilliantly. It’s worth the climb up, if only to look down, indulgently, on the out-of-the-know Zahav-nots.
Three Bells – Excellent