This week, City Paper’s Elisa Ludwig spends some time at Time finding that only about half the time that things arein sync.
Sometimes, though, the dishes are less a clever “take” on a clichÃ© and more of an inspired improvement. Crabcakes, golden, crisp-shelled patties filled with fluffy seafood mousse, are ingeniously paired with pickled jalapeÃ±o slices, acidity cutting the richness. Veal cheeks are braised in IPA until fork-shreddingly soft, slathered with a syrupy bourbon fig confit and served with browned fava beans and cippoline onions. Both are worthy matches for the well-chosen beverages here.