LaBan loves the new Southern-inflected style of Marigold Kitchen, awarding it three bells. But he’s worried:
…O’Shea’s impressive debut in her first months as a head chef is a reaffirmation. It reinforces Marigold’s continued standing as one of our most intriguing kitchens. And the mercurial ease with which this 40-seat destination has drastically changed its culinary personality (now for the second time) is a vivid reminder why the intimate Philadelphia BYOB – as a genre – remains the purest stage for an emerging chef to make her creative voice heard.
Whether many folks are hearing it is the question. There was hardly a soul in the dining room during my final mid-week meal, even though Marigold’s new menu has dropped its entree prices by nearly $10, to mostly under $20, in an effort to bring the neighborhood crowd back.