Three Bells For Supper
Craig LaBan pours the praise on for Supper, the South Street, small plates restaurant that he calls “one of the most exciting restaurants” he’s reviewed in the last six months.
When Supper’s menu advertises a “short rib,” you’re really going to get a short one.
But my goodness, that piece of meat melts in a way I haven’t experienced in a while. It’s the result of more than 36 hours of slow poaching, finished with a glaze of grainy mustard sparking against the earthy sweet-and-sour of a bitter chocolate and raisin sauce. Sided with tender baby turnips, carrots and brussels sprouts, I can see why it costs $19.
Lavishing that kind of attention on quality ingredients, spinning them with detail into inventive combinations, is the ultimate justification for these prices. And Supper, thanks to chef Mitch and his talented chef de cuisine Brinn Sinnott (ex-Lacroix), delivers at a high level with admirable consistency.
Three Bells – Excellent