Craig LaBan puts City Grange through the ringer and finds the restaurant at the Westin suffers from careless cooking and an overly ambitious menu writer.
That second visit, indeed, showed a genuine glimmer of what City Grange is hoping to become. The hard peach had been replaced by a hard pear (at least it was in season). And the kitchen served a handful of memorable dishes.
The macaroni and cheese was as good an update to the classic as I’ve had, tanged with good Pennsylvania Noble cheddar and snuggled beneath a deeply crunchy crumb crust. The trendy Angus burger sliders were borderline delicious, with good meat topped in three pleasantly distinct ways. The Alaskan salmon was moist, and basked in the gentle contrast of its earthy spice rub and a sweet peach chutney. The massive ribeye steak from Meyer Ranch in Montana was undercooked, but the spice-rubbed meat was profoundly tender and buttery.
One Bell – Hit Or Miss
City Grange [Philadelphia Inquirer]