“Family Operating Business”

Rick Nichols checks in on Fish & Grill, a real Turkish family restaurant in the Northeast near Grant and Bustleton.

Too many restaurants, frankly, rest on the laurels of “family,” as if a portrait on the mantel excused slapdash food on the plate. So I’d approached Fish & Grill with expectations lowered by un-stellar experiences.

Those anxieties, happily, were dispensed with the arrival of the appetizers – a subtly seasoned (with parsley and dill) fried eggplant and tomato salad, and airy, still-warm zucchini pancakes, given loft with egg whites, and texture with a shred of zucchini and yogurt-cheese in a whole wheat-and-semolina batter.

Mediterranean fare and a family’s care [Philadelphia Inquirer]

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