Craig LaBan visits the new Tre Scalini at 1915 E Passyunk Avenue. and finds the popular homespun flavors of the original of migrated well and even gotten better.
I’ve always loved the food at Tre Scalini, whose straightforward trattoria menu is neither trendy, seasonal, updated, nor frequently changing. It is an authentic repertoire of worthy family recipes passed down as is, and prepared each day with a ritual simplicity that helps fine ingredients shine, be it an Esposito veal chop, or Talluto’s fresh pastas.
But I could actually taste a difference in my recent meals from my visits a few years ago. There’s an extra focus and clarity to the flavors, a certain restrained grace that only comes from the patient care of a nonna’s touch.
Two Bells – Very Good
Tre Scalini [Philadelphia Inquirer]