Margaret Kuo's Peking

Granite Run Mall
Media, PA 19063

Phone: 610-566-4110

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Website: www.margaretkuos.com/grmedi

Madame Kuo has become a one-woman dynasty, with four restaurants (and one fast-food spot) in the western suburbs, but her first, in the Granite Run Mall, was a revelation for anyone who had grown up associating Chinese food with sticky-sweet sauces and red vinyl booths. Husband Warren Kuo supplied the furnishings from his Pearl of the East import business, while Margaret hired a chef skilled in northern Chinese cuisine. The original Peking, still handsome with its dark woodwork and upholstered banquettes, now has a wee sushi bar, a respectable wine list, feather-light Shanghai steamed pork and crabmeat buns, and attentive servers who deftly assembled Peking duck pancakes tableside. Desserts are frozen imports from the Italian supplier Bindi.