Bistro 7’s 45-seat dining room, painted a striking shade of green that chef-owner Michael O’Halloran describes as somewhere between pea and asparagus, has so few decorations that the steel ductwork on the ceiling seems like art. What’s on the menu isn’t revolutionary, but O’Halloran’s gentle coaxing of those flavors, his attention to detail, and the ever-changing dishes are: A creamy garlic dressing on crisp greens is impossibly sweet and mild; shoestring potatoes accompanying a rib-eye steak frites are fried in duck fat.
Waiting for a table? Ask for a seat at the “bar,” just a couple of seats along the open kitchen. The waitress will be happy to open your wine while, O’Halloran puts on a show.
