I’ve often thought about moving to Northern Liberties just for lunch. The ‘hood — and its Fishtown neighbors to the north — is blessed with casual eateries that take their food, but not themselves too seriously. Taco Riendo, Tiffin and Honey’s are all midday favorites.
Now I can add Café Estelle to the list of reasons to relocate. Anchoring a converted loft building on 4th Street, the comfortable café, with its proudly industrial view, tabletops collaged with vintage recipes and waitstaff dressed in housewife aprons, turns out a craveable assortment of omelets, panini and flatbread pizzas. The well-edited (if not well copy-edited) breakfast and lunch menu features both of-the-moment ingredients — applewood-smoked ham, watercress, manchego — and homey, wholesome options like white bean and kale soup.
They said it would be loud. They said another bar would draw more drunks. They said it would hamstring a decade of progress around 50th and Baltimore, where boarded-up houses and abandoned storefronts have gradually given way to occupied apartments and progressive businesses. But after some tense negotiations, the Cedar Park neighborhood agreed: A brewpub could be more than an unsavory watering hole. When Dock Street Brewery opened in August after a five-year absence from the city scene, thirsty throngs from Penn and beer buffs citywide flocked to the not-quite-gentrified corner. And, admittedly, with all those geeks yammering in the erstwhile firehouse, it gets pretty loud.
Thanks to the smashing success of a few huge Australian wineries, American wine drinkers have acquired a taste for the juice from down under. But in recent years, we have seen a growing number of wines arrive from small-scale estate producers. Philip Shaw has one foot on either side of this divide, as the legendary winemaker behind the remarkable Rosemount Estate line and the owner of his small high-altitude vineyard in New South Wales.
From these small vineyards comes Philip Shaw’s Chardonnay “No. 11,” made in a decidedly European style, an Aussie riff on the Puligny-Montrachet theme. Taut with high-wire citrus tang, its fruit qualities veer toward apple and peach on the palate filigreed with a classy French oak veneer. Drier than most cheap and cheerful Australian chardonnays, its firm mineral backbone provides that degree of food orientation so often lacking. Try this supple beauty as a partner for mild cheeses or sautéed shrimp, sesame chicken or grilled salmon.
In this, the annual season of denial, we appreciate anyone who defines the word diet as “what you eat” instead of “what you shouldn’t eat.” Smart, intuitive food choices — don’t eat anything your great grandmother wouldn’t recognize as food — were the focus of The Omnivore’s Dilemma author Michael Pollan’s discussion at the Free Library last week. In addition to reading from his new book In Defense of Food, which suggests a sensible diet of nothing but, well, food, Pollan offered the at-capacity crowd one diet guideline he thought of after penning this “eater’s manifesto”: “You can have as much fried chicken and French fires as you want — as long as you make them yourself,” Pollan said.
We agree completely — well, we might make the occasional exception when comes to Johnny Brenda’s totally craveable spuds.
Marchesi de Frescobaldi “Nipozzano” Chianti Rufina Riserva 2004
Within the Chianti zone, wines from Classico have an international reputation for superior quality. But further north, outside Florence, tiny Chianti Rufina is giving mighty Chianti Classico a run for the money. Leading the charge is the region’s highest-profile vintner, the Marchesi de Frescobaldi, whose flagship Nipozzano ranks among the finest Chianti riservas and is extraordinarily fairly priced.
Forget the vegetarian and white-chicken kinds. We’re talking manly, stick to your ribs stuff, perfect with a beer in the dead of winter. (Don’t be fooled: it is the dead of winter, even if you were dining al fresco yesterday.) Our favorites:
On Fire
Firefighter-owned, firefighter-themed SmokeEaters Pub has (natch) an award-winning smoldering, slightly sweet sausage-and-bean chili (pictured). Though the beer lineup’s impressive, they recommend a Miller High Life with the chili. Hey, it is Mayfair. 7681 Frankford Avenue, 215-338-4188, smokeeaterspub.com.
Chateaubriand, beef filet for two drizzled with béarnaise, hasn’t been au courant since Jackie O frequented Le Pavillon. Yet the Dilworthtown Inn still lists the $71 entrée on its menu. And it’s ordered as often as a dozen times a night at this candlelit throwback, where men still tend to wear jackets for dinner.
The restaurant has been serving a similar roster of clichéd dishes — rack of lamb with mint, Caesar salad tossed tableside — to a gray-templed clientele since the ’70s. A recent special of squash ravioli sprinkled with pine nuts was a tacit acknowledgement of the intervening decades. But much like the profusion of candles and the country wall stenciling, the dish is both too sweet and a little stale. It’s the taste of nostalgia. Some things, like Dilworthtown, will never change.
It’s time to make those Restaurant Week reservations. But with this year’s price increase — from $30 for three courses to $35 for three courses (not including beverages, tax and gratuity, of course) — the discussion seems to center around where not to go the week of January 27th. Despite the 100-plus options, it is harder to find a real deal this year. And too often restaurants aren’t at their best during the “get‘ em in, get’ em out” week.
I could offer some advice for navigating Restaurant Week:
* Choose a restaurant that’s out of your price range — if you’d never step through the doors at Le Bar Lyonnais otherwise, you won’t mind fewer menu options — but remember that a pricier restaurant usually means a pricier wine list as well.
* Pick a restaurant that offers its full menu. (Ristorante Panorama is one of the few this time around.)
* Do the math and see if your favorite restaurant is will be a steal at $44.95 per person (That’s about what you’ll be paying, with tax and a 20-percent tip.)
Or I could tell you what I’ll be doing that week:
* Enjoying the best part of Restaurant Week: Easier-to-score reservations at city spots that aren’t participating.
“Eat food.” Seemingly obvious, the first two words of author Michael Pollan’s new book In Defense of Food are actually a startlingly complex directive. Need proof: Try reading the ingredient list on the back of, well, almost anything in your pantry. Then ask yourself if you want to dine on those unpronounceables. For Pollan, whose Ominvore’s Dilemma made him a poster boy for the country’s increasing awareness of food politics, understanding food is an eater’s responsibility. Learn more when he discusses In Defense of Food at the Free Library on Thursday.
Jan 10th, Free (No tickets required), 7 p.m. Free Library of Philadelphia Central Library, 1901 Vine St., 215-567-4341
Believe it or not, snappy and refreshing Mount Nelson Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is made by Italy’s most recognized winemaking family, Antinori of chianti classico and super-Tuscan fame. Owned by their Tuscan joint venture, Tenuta Campo di Sasso, the Mount Nelson wine estate sits on some of the most coveted vineyard land in the Marlborough region. Devoted solely to making world-class sauvignon blanc, this marks the family’s first and only foray into New World winemaking.
As one might expect from such a cross-cultural wine, Mount Nelson displays both classic and modern qualities. As with most New Zealand sauvignon blancs, the wine’s aroma is pungently citrusy, as mouthwatering as peeling the season’s first ruby grapefruit. Flavors like passion fruit and guava show distinctively tropical qualities. Yet, there is a touch of restraint here more typical of European whites, allowing herbal notes like lemongrass and a delicate minerality to provide balance. Its seamlessness of texture and resonance on the palate show the hallmark of quality fruit and careful winemaking.
Try this wine with light-weight foods, everything from goat cheese terrine to scallop ceviche, from falafel to veal Milanese.