Blackfish

The tables are close, the noise level is high, and the decor is a few botanical prints on plain white and pale gray walls. Yet townhouse-tiny Blackfish is packed to the gills every night, drawing a Main Line crowd in search of Le Bec-Fin quality closer to home. Chef/owner Charles “Chip” Roman Jr., who worked at Le Bec as a sous-chef and saucier before opening this, his first restaurant, at age 27, applies haute flourishes to comfort food at lunch, serving chicken potpie with a puff pastry chapeau; at dinner, sleek vegetable purees and flavored foams embellish dishes such as chestnut risotto with currant froth, or delicate sea bass with pea puree. Wine-watching at this wee BYOB is prime: We craned our necks to see what Eagles owner Jeffrey Lurie was sharing with coach-turned-restaurateur Don Shula, but to our dismay, the mystery red was already decanted.