Sol del Peru

This small Upper Darby restaurant does the hearty food of the highlands, and it all ends up piled high on the plate. A skirt steak arrives topped with a fried egg, astride french fries, plantains, rice and salad. (Señor Atkins has no standing here.) The delicious anticucho de pollo is a more manageable portion: a chicken brochette, succulent and spicy, grilled to a crisp.