There's nothing more pleasant in Philadelphia these days than a four-hour, six-course meal in this gorgeous, minimalist space overlooking Rittenhouse Square. After almost two decades at the Fountain, legendary chef John-Marie Lacroix easily could have rested on his laurels. Instead, he has taken surprising chances and experimented with dishes like his stake "T-bone;" halibut and grouper in a rich veal stew; and sweet onion soup spiked with sweetbreads. Of course, this is all followed by an outstanding array of cheeses and desserts. Lacroix's mix-and-match menu affords diners more freedom and fun than a traditional, restrictive prix fixe.