Okay, it's nicer than a "joint," but there is something elemental and alive about Radicchio. The daily special scrawled on a blackboard. Waiters squeezing between tables to filet flawless Dover sole tableside. Smoky mozzarella emboldening Radicchio's signature dish, risotto al radicchio. Even on a crowded night, as it nears a din, the noise here seems to wrap diners in a welcome blanket (314 York Avenue—enter at 4th and Wood streets; 215-627-6850).