Vetri

At Marc Vetri's eponymous jewel box, he delivers clean, pure flavors with a compelling mix of the traditional (warm salad of wilted greens with egg and pancetta) and modern (diver scallop wrapped in beef tongue on celery root purée). This chef refuses to pander to the masses; his bold and risky use of organ meats excites the food cognoscenti, with such antipasto as a crispy duo of veal sweetbreads and brains with pickled rhubarb and radish.