Alma de Cuba

In a space already made theatrical with wall-projected black-and-white photos and moody red lighting, Alma de Cubas Nuevo Latino chef Douglas Rodriguez goes over the top with his chocolate cigar mousse cake, a dessert whose sugar paste and tuile cookie matchbook is lit on fire tableside by a very cautious server. Though theres a lot of style here, the substance triumphs: almond cake wrapped in chocolate mousse, sprinkled with cocoa powder, and served with a dulce de leche ice cream.