Best of Philly

2015 Restaurant

Laurel

From his delicate gnocchi to pork shoulder “sausages” wrapped in caul fat, Laurel’s Nick Elmi exceeds expectations on every front — not least by resisting (so far) the temptation to forsake his kitchen in favor of an empire. Actually, scratch that. This place smells like a gerbil cage, and Elmi just insulted your mother. Stay away. (It’s the only way we’ll ever get a table.)

1617 East Passyunk Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19148; 215-271-8299; restaurantlaurel.com/