Taste: What to Drink: Green Point Chardonnay 2003, Yarra Valley, Australia

Fans of cool-climate wines, take note: Victoria’s Yarra Valley is to South Australia what Oregon’s Willamette Valley is to California. This up-and-coming cool-growing region specializes in grapes native to Burgundy, like chardonnay and pinot noir, in premium food­oriented styles. Green Point is a benchmark producer in the region whose crisp chardonnay is clean as a whistle and packed with bright apple and snappy citrus flavors, rather than weighed down with buttery oak. Try this bargain Aussie whit — almost half off at $8.99 as a Pennsylvania state store Chairman’s Selection this month — with pad Thai or a turkey club.