Critic's Notebook: Second Bite: Zahav

Last month, I was wowed by the Modern Israeli fare at Society Hill’s Zahav. And on a recent revisit (yes, I already made my way back), I found yet another addictive dish. It’s based on one of my favorite — but frequently underappreciated — vegetables: cauliflower.

At Zahav, a tender head of cauliflower is broken down into bite-sized florets before being fried crisp and served over a tangy, thick yogurt punched up with fresh lemon juice, dill, mint and garlic. The warm florets are a perfect foil for the cool yogurt beneath. If you ask me, the cauliflower’s powerful cancer-fighting compounds and the yogurt’s probiotics more than make up for the fact that this tasty nosh is deep-fried. You might want to order more than one for the table; it’s good for you.