Tucked into a six-seat stall at the Booth’s Corner Farmer’s Market, there’s some Mardi Gras caliber magic happening at Cajun Kate’s. It’s an odd spot for such terrific food. This farmers market is nothing like Headhouse : You can play an arcade game called Nasty Crab, buy a used mattress or pick up some Miley Cyrus stickers. But it’s from this tiny, unassuming kitchen that Don Applebaum — a veteran of Emeril Lagasse’s Nola in New Orleans — turns out the best Po’ Boys, Gumbos and Jambalayas I’ve ever tasted. Unfortunately, Cajun Kate’s is only open Fridays and Saturdays. I’ve had good luck stopping by on late Friday afternoons for an early dinner, but forget about lunchtime — it’s typically four deep at the counter. Applebaum should do us all a favor and expand his stall into a legitimate restaurant. A business with food this good needs room to grow.
Web Original: Critic’s Notebook: The Little Easy
Originally published in Philadelphia Magazine, October 2008