Feature Article

The Late Great Northeast

Growing up in Northeast Philly, I desperately wanted to escape its marshmallow blandness. Now — 40 years later — my old neighborhood has radically changed. Figuring out why I find that so upsetting just might open a new window into the most mysterious swath of the city

By Michael Callahan

Photograph by Ryan Donnell

Page 1 of 10

JULY 1971
 
You don’t want to ask. It’s Saturday, and Dad does his own thing on Saturdays. He doesn’t take you fishing or to ball games or say, “Hey, let’s have a catch.” He’s not that kind of dad. He works every day in a stinky garage, comes home every night, sits at the head of the dinner table in his white undershirt and pork-chop sideburns, shoveling meatloaf or stew or whatever other basic fare Mom has made into the mouth of his massive, square face. A benign and steady presence, he doesn’t like fancy food, fancy places, fancy anything. So everything in his life, and subsequently yours, is plain: where you go to school, what TV shows you watch, where you live.
 
You stand with your two best friends in the world, Ricky Benz and Johnny Salvatore, fidgeting behind you. Ricky is tall, wiry and athletic. Johnny is smaller, darker, with mischievous Mediterranean looks that even at the age of seven telegraph a romantic danger that will become evident in later years. You are like neither of them. You are slight and sandy-haired and, compared to them, you think, ordinary. You have a talent for drawing and not much else. Except today, perhaps, if you can do this, this one thing they can’t.
 
“C’mon, ask,” Ricky whispers.
 
The three of you went to Mr. Benz first; his dismissal was precise and brutal. Then Mrs. Salvatore. She leaned out the front door, collecting the mail, and shook her head distractedly, mumbling how she had to go inside and check on her gravy. So you meandered back up two doors to your driveway, where your dad is now on one knee with a tire gauge in his hand.
 
Your instinct is to ask Mom, but Mom is tough with money. Squaring your shoulders, you see opportunity before you, and it’s checking the tire pressure of a blue 1962 Chevy Biscayne. “Dad,” you say, “can you give us three quarters to buy ice cream at Bea & Mel’s?”
 
He looks up, and for a moment it’s just the two of you. The rest of the world drops away, and Ricky isn’t there and Johnny isn’t there and the car and the driveway aren’t there. Your father doesn’t talk much. You know, though, that he is deeply, deeply kind. And so as he calmly replies “Sure,” and reaches into the pocket of his dark trousers for three shiny coins, your heart swells.  
 
A half-hour later, you sit with your two best friends in a vinyl back booth at Bea & Mel’s, all three of you savoring your sugar cones, because nobody in the Northeast dips a bigger cone for 25 cents than Bea. Johnny suggests going home and getting wax paper and then going to Jardel playground to slide down the sliding boards; Ricky thinks tonight will be a good night for catching lightning bugs. And you feel, swinging your pasty white legs back and forth against the front of the booth as you lick your ice-cream cone, that all is right with your world.


 

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I Hear Ya...How Do We Save Our Parents??
Posted by AngelovFaith | Dec. 31, 2008 at 3:15 PM
COMMENT:
thank you for very appopriately making me cry on new years eve as i read that, while i sit here up IN the northeast after moving back here to help my own 76 year old mother, who also WILL NOT move offa street where she knows not a one of her neighbors anymore, they dont say hello or ask how she's doing at all whereas she used to spend every day with one of her fellow neighbor/best friend/housewives at her kitchen table, or at theirs, (now they have all passed away) and they were all Aunt somebody to me...its a street where i get in fights with the new neighbors from the new houses that take up the big lawns we played, (since whoever passed away, their house was sold by their children and 2 new houses were built in their place) we fight over them taking my late fathers parking space on christmas because no one all the years he and the working class guys like him would never do that, they had an unwritten loyalty about it. i sit here and realize why i wanted to leave so bad in my teen ye
...and all the rest...
Posted by AngelovFaith | Dec. 31, 2008 at 3:58 PM
COMMENT:
my very soul feels like its being suffocated by the lack of culture and openmindedness. but yes it was safe, and a nice place to grow up, made me dream big, yet now here i am sending my daugther to the same school where i went, all to have my mother have her golden years not alone. am i truly saving her? not if im sacrificing my own breath, or perhaps giving my daughter the same future destined with isolation and fear that the neighbors will gasp if she brings home a black or gay friend. yes the new neighbors may be alittle over my own age, but they still gasp. i dont know why. our section of the northeast hasnt gone down, its gotten snootier, and to me this is a decline all its own, one where racism and bigotry never died, yet helping the old lady next door (my mom) with her groceries or shoveling the snow off her driveway are unheard of. the new guy next door turned his garage into a weightlifting arena, once where my Uncle so and so used to work on whatever dads who came home from w
cause im so compelled to comment...
Posted by AngelovFaith | Dec. 31, 2008 at 4:00 PM
COMMENT:
whatever dads who came home from work would work on and hammer away at, now has mirrors and music, and a big hulk of a guy who literally leaves a straight line of snow where my mothers driveway stops and his begins. its a street where we were taught that to move to an apartment meant someones parents got divorced, so it was also normal for the kids to live at home til marriage, yet since i moved out when i was 18, and now come around, even these new younger neighbors talk, and say "she has no husband, how will she expect to send a child through school up here??!!", and think i cant hear them through their screen windows. luckily thats no longer the case, i am married, and iw as paying for school before that! but the fact that i even think that way is a result of the Great Northeast in all its finest "we're better than you" attitude. one neighbor was a music teacher at my daughter's preschool. we didnt say hello. nor do we when i see her at church. our daughters wave hello. i refuse to
my part of the northeast is full of hate
Posted by AngelovFaith | Dec. 31, 2008 at 4:01 PM
COMMENT:
i refuse to be fake, ive spoken my mind to these people and they dont like it, or me, or my mother. to them her house is an eysore since she no longer decorates for Christmas since my dad's not around to hang the lights. im sure they're waiting for her to die so 2 new houses can be built with younger people to move in. where did they all come from?! who are these new people?! why are they so callous to my mother and so judgemental being from this generation? Oh the Northeast has changed my friend, but from my view, at the corner of Glenloch and Arrendell, its a neighborhood where if i got locked out, or my mother fell down some stairs and called for help, theres no one who would want to or has a spare key to help out. In fact, she wouldnt have anyone to call. The new man across the street who once told her to "check herself into and old age home already" for looking out her screen door every time he walked his dog across the lawn, would probably walk right over her. Remember when peop

Posted by AngelovFaith | Dec. 31, 2008 at 4:07 PM
COMMENT:
when people would look out their front door to see if everythings alright? Sure they are called busybodies, but when i was little, they always bought my girl scout cookies or invited me in for cookies of their own. My mother still makes trick or treat bags up every year for the kids who live on the block with all their names on it and insists on taking it to them if they dont come to the door. my daughter ends up with most of them at the end of the night now. Sure not EVERYONE on our street is bad, but its sure not the Northeast that i grew up on. We were orignal owners form 1963 when this was a dirt road. I'm 38 now and i beg my mother every day to move, not becasue shes in danger of someone walking into her kitchen, but of someone NOT. She spends her holidays lonely and heartbroken with no neighbors to talk to or hang out with. They were like family. I drag her out now when i can. Where has the respect for the elderly gone?!
Seriously, where has the Resepect for the Elderly Gone?!
Posted by AngelovFaith | Dec. 31, 2008 at 4:08 PM
COMMENT:
It doesnt live in this part of the Northeast. Its a different kind of decline.
We are working to stop the decline and make more people aware
Posted by cammycap | Jan. 6, 2009 at 9:09 AM
COMMENT:
As a board member of the Tacony Civic, I head the Quality of Life, and we in Tacony take the issues effecting our communities seriously. We also are working on a REAL Marketing Campaign for the entire North East to educate people what we have to offer. NO where else in the city can you play golf, ride a horse, go fishing, sailing, boating, hiking. No where else can you have a yard and still walk to the doctors or the grocery store. FOLK, it's a glass half full story here, and we know that the macro economics of the city are against us, but we also KNOW if we united we will be able to OVERCOME and deliver a nice place to live and work, and if you every go on the Phillyblog you will see for years I have said it's not about RACE, but it is about Class. I can speak for alot of people in our GREAT Community, if you are living your life auditioning for the Jerry Springer Show then we generally have a problem with you.
when are you moving back?
Posted by philadelphiaspeaksdotcom | Jan. 6, 2009 at 10:16 AM
COMMENT:
Hey Callahan, You are a self titled liberal, with a 'diverse' support base who has experience negotiating 'integrated' neighborhoods. You seem quite open minded as well, with a true thirst for knowledge. I was expecting a paragraph at the end with your moving plans. Are you moving back to the great NE?
Duty to your past
Posted by MarkMcCaffertyMayfair1 | Jan. 18, 2009 at 7:59 AM
COMMENT:
After reading the article I was a little upset. Yes, the northeast is changing. Yes, it was better years ago (soon as 10 years ago). However, I think that the people that lived here years ago are responsible for it's appearance today. Children moving away to raise families is a normal thing for any area. Who replace them is the issue. If you truly care about where you grew up, then you should try to keep it that way for the next generation. Moving is one thing, moving and not caring what you left behind is another. I grew up here, went to school here (St. Tim's, Father Judge, Drexel) and have incredible memories of my childhood and neighborhood. I can't imagine a better place to grow up, than what I had. I Also think the reputation of our area is exaggerated. Again, it is changing, but where else is there a better stretch of area that is safe for your kids in Philadelphia. My street (3400 Shelmire) has 20 kids playing out front, parents who know and hangout together and look out f
My Story Is A Lot Like Yours . . .
Posted by Irene | Feb. 13, 2009 at 1:14 PM
COMMENT:
I am an almost lifelong NE Philly resident - OLC gradeschool, Mount St. Joseph Academy (NOT in the Northeast, and yes, most of the girls there, natives of Chestnut Hill and Montgco, would not even speak to me), and Temple U Class of '85, BA Journalism. In fact, I think we may have taken a journalism class together at some point. I grew up thinking of Northeast Philly much as I thought of my parents -- boring, ultra conservative, plastic and polyester and kitsch -- now I am a Mom myself and I look back and see what a nightmare I must have been for my parents, like a female Stewie from Family Guy, sitting in my room paging through Vogue magazine and feeling so superior to everyone who loved the Philadelphia Iggles and ate fried kielbasa on Sunday mornings ("My God, woman! Are you trying to drown me in cholesterol -- and after you just received Communion, what a scandal!"-typical comment I might make). I spent quite a few years wandering, my favorite time being the 3 years I lived in
continued
Posted by Irene | Feb. 13, 2009 at 2:08 PM
COMMENT:
Greenwich Village, NYC. However, with maturity, I see there is good and there is bad in most things we create, including our neighborhoods. I am living in the NE again (Mayfair), and my parents are still alive, and I am so grateful that I get to still see some of the people and places of my childhood remain. Hey, I can walk to the corner WaWa alone at 11 PM on a hot summer night -- how many neighborhoods can boast of that anymore?
Erosion - slowly but surely
Posted by John | Mar. 6, 2009 at 9:14 PM
COMMENT:
As a kid in the early 80's, my friends and I could walk wherever we wanted without a concern. Friday or Saturday nights at the Roosevelt Mall, stickball or wireball under the streetlights, or just plain walking from friend's house to friend's house. Now, my kids in the same neighborhood have to worry about getting 'jumped' for the sneakers they have on their feet. Even stories from friends about getting jumped simply because they were walking alone. This is the new Mayfair or Rhawnhurst. Listen, Mayfair got so bad the real estate marketers seperated it into east and west mayfair. Now there is a wrong side of the tracks ? I do happen to live on a great block. All my neighbors have been here for atleast a decade, some for 3 or 4 decades, or atleast grew up here. The old school values of pride still exist, however block by block it is eroding. We still sit out on the patio with a slew of neighbors most nights in the summer, but our conversations are often interupted with the sirens of the
Look at what happened to Juniata
Posted by Tom | Mar. 11, 2009 at 11:18 AM
COMMENT:
Juniata 20 years was a perfect example of what America should be. Hard working families who cared and looked out for one another. I didn't know of any parents who were divorced, Holy Innocents was packed on Sunday's and about 90% of the neighborhood kids went to school there. The May Procession and opening day of little league baseball were celebrated by all. I knew every family on the block. Most of the dads were blue collar union types and depending upon thier trade, always willing to help. Once you moved into Juniata, you stayed in Juniata because it was safe, clean, family oriented and filled with people who had the same values. Then people with different values started moving into Juniata, they brought with them crime, filth and section 8. It killed me to see a neighborhood that was heaven on earth turn into hell so quickly. Juniata is the most diverse area in Philadelphia, sometimes diversity isn't a good thing, ask anyone who lived there 20 years ago.
My Memories like faded photographs
Posted by maureen | Apr. 8, 2009 at 7:18 AM
COMMENT:
I have lived in Sarasota, Fl for 20+ years now, its beautiful but my childrens childhood memories will be much different than the neighborhood friends and memories I hold dear, yes, cities change even small cities like mine-I was from Morrell Park, my sister still lives near there, there is a kind of comfort coming"home" again-I have no answers for the ensuing changes but I hope some group takes pride and gloom and doom and decay that some posters have talked about.
Matter of understanding
Posted by John Bonaccorsi | Apr. 20, 2009 at 4:26 PM
COMMENT:
Gee, Michael – I guess there are persons like you, who regard the Northeast’s decline as an existential mystery – and persons like me, who, in the face of it, mutter things like, "Section 8...." Anyway – greetings to your brother Tom.
so true
Posted by D | Apr. 22, 2009 at 6:42 PM
COMMENT:
I have moved out of the Northeast about three years ago but I still live close enough to visit my parents from time to time. But it doesnt even feel the same. I lived with my mom and then my dads throughout college...they're divorced now...but still live in the same area. I knew during college that the neighborhood was changing when everyone had left and I didnt know many faces on the block. Now I go back and its just sad...and I dont know if my car is even safe to park on the block! I loved the northeast, I babysat for my neighbors, sat on the steps with all the moms even though I was a teen! I walked to grade school, middle school, and high school. And I'm probably the first and only one my block to go to college. But growing up in the 80s and early 90s was great in the northeast...what did happen? Great article, almost put me to tears.
Good OL Days
Posted by Paul | May. 12, 2009 at 10:22 AM
COMMENT:
I miss playing stick ball all day in rhawnhurst school yard with the radio on. we still talk about specific plays, games, and still argue some points. I miss the little things, climbing the roof to retrieve balls, bitching about if the ball hit the edge of the box, was it a ball or strike? big gulps and the sun beating down on a summer day.then coming back that night to have a "SODA" or 12 with the same group plus some female companionship. back then 1984-1989 we were stick ball playing maniacs. we also played hockey there, football,...we also played for Rhawnhurst A.A. but nothing could take the place of the school yard days. I have my own business screen printing if anyone is interested i made a shirts ' stick ball legends with art work email if you want to order.
Good OL Days
Posted by Paul | May. 12, 2009 at 10:24 AM
COMMENT:
zeezteez@comcast.net Thanks for the topic and post by all
Back in the Northeast
Posted by Eileen | May. 26, 2009 at 8:38 AM
COMMENT:
Just had to say what a great article. I grew up here in the Northeast, moved to Delaware County in 1999, and in 2006, came back here with my husband after we were married to purchase my grandfather's home here on Wellington St. He went in on a house with my parents right outside Philly in Abington. I'm glad to say I do know my neighbors and am so glad to be back. I can walk to work. Yes, things have changed, but I don't see things as that bad. I'm happy to have been able to buy this home, and wish more people would stay in the neighborhood.
beautiful
Posted by gabrielle | May. 27, 2009 at 11:29 AM
COMMENT:
what a beautiful written story .
i agree with tom about juniata
Posted by Anonymous | Jun. 13, 2009 at 7:13 PM
COMMENT:
juniata used to be a great neighborhood. Everyone on my block knew one another my parents sat outside on summer nights and talked for hours. Our block even planed trips to amusement parks for all of us to go on. I was in the parade for the beginning of the baseball season. i remember how crowded the carnival used to be. now i cant even walk down the street by myself without being afraid and alot has to do with juniata being so "diverse".
Juniata Park
Posted by Fred | Jun. 14, 2009 at 8:25 AM
COMMENT:
When I first moved into Juniata Park I thought I was moving into a whole new world I can remember when the houses were being built across Hunting Park Ave.My Folks with Friday night food shopping before the Food Fair was built and caddying for my dad at the golf courseto get my spending money bikeridng to Frankford Junction after dinner in the dead of summer Jumping the El and riding back and forth and bikeriding Christmas time was always the best time of the year They were great days and I do miss them
the Dog at L & Hunting Park Ave
Posted by Fred | Jun. 14, 2009 at 8:33 AM
COMMENT:
I remember When I was going to Holy Innocnets there wasa Balck Spring spaniel dog named Blackie he would always sit at the center lane I was coming back from Frankford one day and I was at the center Doors of the "P" Bus and that screwball dog was barking and runnig after the bus I never saw it to fail my Mom Often refered to him, as "The Boss Of Hunting Park Avenue"
Johnny in HK
Posted by John Rutter | Jun. 20, 2009 at 2:28 AM
COMMENT:
Like you, I grew up in Rhawnhurst and played ball for AA, we won the city in 1967 or 1968 (Mike Mountain/Steve Dudek were the Star Pitchers). My dad was the 3rd base coach, and I think he enjoyed the season more than we did. He is gone, but Happy Father's day to all!
I'm new to NE Philly
Posted by Anonymous | Jul. 2, 2009 at 7:19 PM
COMMENT:
I grew up in South Philly, moved to Jersey for a time, and came back to the city, but to the far NE this time. I like it here and don't understand why others don't.
Mayfair
Posted by Dr. Leona A. Subiel | Aug. 1, 2009 at 2:48 PM
COMMENT:
Mayfair
Posted by Dr. Leona A. Subiel | Aug. 1, 2009 at 2:50 PM
COMMENT:

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