Taste: Eat This Now: Neal’s Yard Dairy Cheese at Di Bruno Bros.

Anyone who feared that the Di Bruno Bros. expansion last spring would make the old dairy boutique lose its focus will find it reassuring to examine the provenance of some newly arrived wheels of cheese. The cobalt-blue and ecru labels announce that the merchandise passed through the hands of Neal’s Yard Dairy, a London cheesemonger that makes jokes about British cuisine anachronistic. Di Bruno’s is the only area importer of the cheeses, which bear names that evoke Chaucer, Welsh prog-rock bands and Harry Potter, with complex flavors to match: Lincolnshire Poacher (something between a cheddar and an Emmentaler), Caerphilly (a friendly white cow’s-milk) and Ticklemore (a salty, mineral, hard goat cheese). All familiar caveats about London prices apply, but at Di Bruno’s, the stickers carry their own pleasing shock: authoritative tasting notes written in-house.

Di Bruno Bros., 1730 Chestnut Street; 215-665-9220.

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