Taste: Dining Out: Where We’re Eating: Treno

With a 350-bottle wine list and entrées that started at $24, the ambitions of Kitchen 233 far outstripped its modest South Jersey locale. Now, the space has been reborn as an affordable pizza-and-wine bar (no glass over $9, no bottle over $35). The house-cured meat-and-cheese plate and crispy mozzarella skewers were promising starters, and the homemade pappardelle with duck was flavorful and firm. But the pies were uneven. Both the margherita and the meatball suffered from gummy dough; the apple, bacon and onion was better.
Insider tip: The gelatos — especially the pistachio and espresso — are standouts.
Treno Pizza Bar, 233 Haddon Avenue, 856-833-9233.

Where We’re Eating Contributors: Timothy Haas, Lauren McCutcheon, Ashley Primis and Christine Speer

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