Taste: Dining Out: Where We’re Eating: Paul

Paul is unassuming in every way: the quiet part of Pine Street where it sits, the soft gray walls, the new American menu filled with familiar ingredients — short ribs, scallops and oysters. What’s surprising is the care that’s put into each dish. While the overcooked crab in the spring rolls was a miss, cups of Bibb lettuce, light Roquefort dressing and zing from green apples made for a refreshing salad, and the duck ragout on homemade pasta was delicate enough that we found it a weekday-appropriate entrée. Overall, a solid addition to the neighborhood. Insider tip: The chef suggests you bring along a syrah for the heartier entrées, and recommends a crisp riesling for the light apps.
1120 Pine Street, Antique Row, 215-238-0210.

 Where We’re Eating Contributors: Ashley Primis and Victor Fiorillo

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