Taste: Cravings: Deep-Dish Pizza

Philly is officially a pizza town now, what with both Stephen Starr and Marc Vetri proudly proffering our once-deprived city impeccably thin, wood-oven-baked pies. But leave it to Jose Garces to change the name of the game. Move over, cracker-like crusts and judiciously applied toppings — at his latest venture, the Garces Trading Company, a glittering gourmet market and cafe with its very own (gasp) PLCB boutique wine shop, pizza is of the deep-dish variety. The saucy, cheesy, knife-and-fork-required pies (be prepared: they take half an hour to bake) are tributes to the Chicago-style pizza Garces grew up eating. And as always with the Iron Chef, quality is key: The two-inch-deep crust is made with Indian Head stone-ground cornmeal, the sauce is a flavorful confit of roasted San Marzano tomatoes, and the cheese is a perfectly gooey mix of mozzarella and gruyère.

1111 Locust Street, 215-574-1099, garcestradingcompany.com.

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