Popolino
Popolino is Peter McAndrews’s ode to the peasant cuisine of ancient Rome—made from the bits and pieces of an animal left over once the rich, powerful and quick have had their pick. The place is both casual and refined (with prix-fixe and à la carte service, and an antipasti bar that feels like a bizarrely Italian churrascaria), comforting and challenging (offering oxtail, tongue and tripe right alongside more recognizable favorites like spaghetti carbonara and veal saltimbocca).

Don’t miss: McAndrews’s favorite dish, a calamari fritti with hard-boiled egg, apricots, almonds, and a version of Roman fish sauce that he swears predates any other country’s attempts at squeezing the juice from fermented anchovies.

Eat at one of the best Italian restaurants in Philadelphia:
Popolino, 501 Fairmount Avenue, Philadelphia, 215-928-0106.

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