35. Sovana Bistro

Sovana can feel like an anomaly—it’s hard to understand how an establishment this attractive, tasty, accessible, consistent, energetic and inspired can be tucked away in a Kennett Square shopping center. Chef Nick Farrell doesn’t reinvent the wheel here; he just cooks everything on the constantly changing, Chez Panisse-evoking menu at the highest level, and elevates ingredients to their best possible state. So the sweetness of roasted squash is punctuated by sour cherries in a salad; apples and bacon are tossed in toasted caraway vinegar to form a slaw; and a potpourri of corn, salami, jalapeño and feta makes for a memorable pizza topping.

Apologies in Advance: To Sovana’s cadre of faithful regulars for blowing up your spot—we’re just jealous that this is your neighborhood joint and not ours.

Visit one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia:
Sovana Bistro, 696 Unionville Road, 610-444-5600.

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