The Founding Fathers of Philly Beer

Woods writes a blog under the nom de plume Beerlass, discussing, in her easy, girlfriend-chatty tone, local beer events, brews she enjoys and food she loves. The Beerlass blog is another vehicle for recruiting women to Philly’s beer scene, which is becoming more accessible by the minute. Helpful is the slow disappearance of clichéd notions like beer bellies, belching, and sticky floors in dive bars. Instead, Woods notes, women are imbibing lagers, sours and IPAs in Philadelphia bars rich with character. It helps that fine dining is embracing craft beer. “At Vetri one night, they were so tickled when we paired beer with the food all night,” Woods recalls. “And the sommelier knew as much about beer as wine.”  — Janine White

THE BREWMASTERS

Who could have imagined that a bus ride in 1973 would turn into a brewery that employees 150 people and sells beer in 30 states? That bus ride — to Worcester Elementary School in Montgomery County — is where Bill Covaleski and Ron Barchet, founders of Downingtown’s Victory Brewing Company, first met. (Apple juice was in their mugs back then.)

Before there was Victory, there was an education. In 1987, Ron and Bill traveled to Germany and Belgium. “The trip opened our eyes,” explains Bill. “It wasn’t just the flavor of the beer, but the culture. It was a time in America when Nancy Reagan was telling everyone to ‘Just Say No.’ We saw how quality beer was supporting towns and neighborhoods in Europe. We saw that as a model we wanted to be a part of.”

After the trip, they learned everything they could about beer, apprenticing with a Dutch brewmaster, taking jobs with the Baltimore Brewing Company, attending brewing academies in Munich. “On New Year’s Eve in 1993, we opened up some strong Belgian ale and convinced our wives to let us write a business plan,” Bill explains.

They set up a brewpub in 1996, so they could create their own forum and educate their audience. Meanwhile, in trying to distribute their product themselves, they were going head-to-head with established distributors. “Our scene has some stubborn people who refused to accept no as an answer — Tom Peters from Monk’s, William Reed from Standard Tap. We all rolled up our sleeves and made it happen,” Bill says.

And we reap the benefits. “We have an unpretentious but strong food/ beer vibe,” Bill says of Philly. “I don’t know of any other city that does.”

Victory has no plans to slow down. These days, its creators do charitable work for the Brandywine Valley Association and have been dabbling with beers that are closer to mass-market. “Ron and I are fascinated, as brewers, with putting flavor in light beers,” Bill says. Are you listening, Miller Lite? Our hometown brewer is coming for you.  — A.P.
 

All Photography by Ryan Donnell