Taste: Reviews: The Replacements
Remember the name Michael Solomonov. You may not know him yet, but his work at Marigold is the best possible introduction, affirming him as one of Philadelphia’s most promising young culinary talents. Born in Israel, reared in Pittsburgh, mentored at Avenue B (by Patrick Feury), at Striped Bass (by Terence Feury) and at Vetri (by Marc Vetri), Solomonov steps into his first head chef’s job at the age of 27, with a technique that is already mature. From its start, Marigold has had a reputation as a West Philly version of Django, a haven for eclectic, sometimes edgy dishes. Solomonov continues to cook in that vein, but his ideas and refined presentations will bring even greater glory to this outstanding BYOB.
The appointments are still too stark for my taste, with ductwork dangling from the ceiling, and no tablecloths or trimmings to soften the bare dining room, a contemporary retrofit of a Victorian rowhouse. But smooth, professional service softens the room’s hard edges. Prices have crept up since last year, with entrées starting in the mid-$20s. Not inexpensive, but absolutely worth the tab.
There’s no more blatantly cute food, like the liver croquettes plated to look like flowers along a picket fence, or the goat cheese mousse gussied up to look like ice cream. One of my meals starts with a single savory chicken truffle rolled in smoked paprika, a complimentary amuse that involves brining, smoking, pureeing and sieving the chicken leg meat before it arrives on the plate, typical of the labor-intensive preparations that this kitchen prides itself on.
But Solomonov knows how to have fun. The lovely beef carpaccio, spiked with the flavors of preserved lemon and fennel, is served with a tiny tower of beef tartare for texture contrast, topped off with a fried green olive that hides a center of smoky ground beef tongue where the pit should be. A slice of buttery brioche, cut as thick as a steak, comes with a cooked egg in the center and a topping of smoked salmon, a grown-up version of Toad in the Hole. Toasted pine nuts and honey mushrooms are inspired additions to an appetizer of escargots and pearly Israeli couscous.
The pan-seared chicken breast is as fat and juicy as the one served at the Famous French Restaurant On Walnut Street, and the bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin could not ask for better accompaniments than the diced dried apricots, seared chanterelle mushrooms and seared corn galette that came with it when corn was in season. Solomonov’s Striped Bass experience shows in his lusciously meaty grouper with a side of chickpeas, chorizo and squid, and in the monkfish paired with apple/celery root ravioli, surrounded by a lightly curried broth.
I can’t say what desserts will be available this month, because the pastry chef position was vacated right after my review visits. I’m hoping that Julia Kovacs left a couple of recipes behind, particularly the ones for pignoli cake with lavender ice cream, and the chocolate/celery seed tart, with its delightful side of celery leaf ice cream. Change can be good, as these two restaurants have shown, but some things are worth holding onto.
E-mail: mgallagher@phillymag.com
